Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Old Ale Project – A Concurrent Analysis

I’ve just crossed the midway mark of this project, so it’s time to take a look at what I’ve experienced over the past couple months.  This analysis includes…

North Coast Brewing – Old Stock Ale Otsuchi 2012 (#1)
Alaskan Brewing – Winter Ale (#2)
Widmer Brothers & Cigar City – Gentlemen’sClub (New Oak Spirals) (#3)
Eel River – Triple Exultation (#4)
The Bruery – Coton (#5)
Greene King – Olde Suffolk English Ale (#6)
Harviestoun Brewery – Ola Dubh 30 (#7)
Prairie Artisan Ales – The Beer That SavedChristmas (#8)
AleSmith – Old Ale (#9)
Ballast Point – 8.9 on the Richter Ale (#10)
O’Hanlon’s Brewing Co. – Thomas Hardy’s Ale (#11)
Hangar 24 – Vinaceous (#12)
San Diego Brewing Co. – Saxon Old Ale (#13)

I feel like these thirteen beers have already given me a pretty good idea of what to expect with this style.  The nose generally presents aromas that resemble brown sugar, molasses, dark pitted fruit, dried fruit, and dark breads.  You can often get a whiff of alcohol and the barrel it was aged in (if applicable for the latter).  I have actually come to appreciate the smell of this complex style of beer perhaps even more than the taste. 

Flavors tend to follow the bouquet with brown sugar, molasses, dates, figs, cherries, and deeply toasted malts.  The mouthfeel is consistently full with light carbonation.  As for appearance, I generally expect a deep chestnut body, with a few streams of rising bubbles, and a thin, beige head.  I believe that brilliance is preferred, but not always achieved. 

The most important aspect of this style that I have picked up thus far is the genuine need for aging.  I have had both old and young, and decidedly prefer the former.  Age and proper cellaring completely round out any harsh edges on this beer.  Ballast Point’s 8.9 on the Richter Ale and San Diego Brewing’s Saxon Old Ale were nice pints, but both were a little too sharp for me (please note that these both came from draft handles that weren’t marked with a vintage, so I am assuming that they came from this year).  Conversely, The Bruery’s Coton and O’Hanlon’s Thomas Hardy’s Ale were both carefully aged, and the result was incredible.  Rounded sweetness, sherry-like flavors, and a velvety mouthfeel appear to be the reward for patience.  Greene King’s Old Suffolk English Ale is a blend of both old and new, and this seems to be the ideal technique for perfecting this style.

Also, I like to perceive the alcohol in an Old Ale, but not be beaten over the head with it.  This beer should be warming… not hot.  Hangar 24’s Vinaceous and AleSmith’s Old Ale were both a little on the hot side, although I much preferred AleSmith’s effort. 

In addition, I have found that hops are better here when they are restrained.  Eel River’s Triple Exultation was a nice beer, but the amplified hop character made it feel like the odd man out.  Light bitterness and minimal hop aroma seem to be the way to go.

Finally, oak flavors and barrel aging are a good fit for the style, but, as with my other observations, they need to be handled with grace.  Widmer and Cigar City’s Gentlemen’s Club was so oaky that I could barely even finish it.  Conversely, thought and planning was clearly put into the barrel aging of Prairie Artisan Ales’ The Beer That Saved Christmas, which definitely enhanced the overall experience.  I would like to continue to find wood in my Old Ales, but not enough that I could pick my teeth with.

Well, I’ve got another twelve to go.  The herd is quickly thinning, so I’m hoping I can come up with a complete flight of twenty five.  Wish me luck.

-Matt

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