Monday, December 30, 2013

Old Ale Project – Greene King’s Olde Suffolk English Ale (#6)

16.9oz bottle decanted into a snifter.  6.0% ABV.  Served at 55F and allowed to elevate to room temperature. 

Appearance:  Stained maple, brilliantly clear, rapidly fading head (4.5/5).

Aroma:  Smells like an ancient, musty, dark old bar.  There is an incredible lingering sweetness and fresh tobacco scent.  This aroma definitely puts the “old” in Old Ale (4/5).

Taste:  This beer features an incredible complexity considering its relatively low ABV.  There’s an intresting staleness, followed by brown sugar, tobacco, caramel, dark cherries, and oak (4.25/5).

Mouthfeel:  Full body with low carbonation (4/5)

Overall:  It’s interesting to go directly from The Bruery’s Coton to Olde Suffollk.  Both beers are great examples of the style, but on completely opposite ends of the spectrum for alcohol by volume.  Both have been aged to perfection.  Both have a minimal contribution from hops.  Both have rich dark cherry and brown sugar flavors, but one clocks in at 14.5%  and the other is 6.0%.  It’s enlightening to see that these Old Ale flavors can develop, regardless of the alcohol.  I guess you could call Olde Suffolk a “sessionalbe” Old Ale (4.25/5).

-Matt

Sunday, December 29, 2013

Old Ale Project – The Bruery’s Coton (#5)

5oz draft pour in a snifter.  14.5% ABV.

Appearance:  Chestnut brown, slightly cloudy, with a light cap of beige foam (4/5).

Aroma:  Sweet bourbon, vanilla, jammy Port wine, brown sugar, molasses, a little black pepper, and a hint of oak (5/5).

Taste:  I have never tasted any beer that more closely resembles a Port than this.  Very interesting.  This flavor is then laced with sweet sugars and dark pitted fruits (primarily cherry) (4.5/5).

Mouthfeel:  Full body with low carbonation.  Beautiful warmth from the alcohol (4.5/5)

Overall:  This was The Bruery’s second anniversary ale, which I guess makes it a little over three years old at this point.  I had it at their Taproom, and appreciate how lovingly they have seen it into maturity.  It’s an incredible example of what the “big” end of this style can be, with a very distinct and mature flavor and aroma.  It’s also an exciting example of the “Solera” method, where the same beer is created year-after-year and previous vintages are blended into it for layers of depth and complexity.  I guess for this version only Papier (1st anniversary) is in the mix, but it’s nice to know that some of what I’m drinking will be around for a long time.  From my understanding, similar techniques were used in historical Old Ale making.  I could drink it all day if it wouldn’t make me dead (4.5/5).

-Matt

Saturday, December 28, 2013

Old Ale Project – Eel River’s Triple Exultation (#4)

22oz bottle decanted into a snifter.  9.7% ABV.  Served at 55F and allowed to elevate to room temperature.  Certified organic.

Appearance:  Deep chestnut, moderately bubbly with a decent beige head, and brilliantly clear (4/5).

Aroma:  Mmmmmm… nice.  Dried stone fruit and jammy grapes.  Brown sugar and caramel.  A touch of oxidation, but an acceptable level.  In fact, it adds an additional layer to an already beautiful and complex aroma (4.25/5).

Taste:  Surprisingly hoppy with a bitterness that lasts.  There is a little woodiness from what I am assuming is some degree of barrel aging, with a little vanilla, bourbon, and a touch of tobacco.  There is also some staling, but again not inappropriate.  It would be interesting to know if that was intentional or just a “benefit” on sitting on a big box liquor store shelf for several months.  The bitterness steps back a touch toward the latter end of the pint as the beer nears room temperature (3.5/5).

Mouthfeel:  Full body with medium carbonation.  There is a light warmth from the alcohol and a puckering quality from the hops.  There is also an interesting “thickness” that develops when the beer warms that feels almost chalky.  Not a negative note; more of an interesting observation (3.75/5)

Overall:  This is a very nice beer, but the flavor comes across a little dramatic.  I would love to have this same beer dialed back about twenty five percent in both the bitterness and the alcohol.  80 IBUs seems to be a bit much here.  The aroma is incredibly inviting, but once it hit my mouth it became a little obnoxious.  But in the end I am impressed (3.75/5).

-Matt

Friday, December 27, 2013

Old Ale Project – Widmer Brothers & Cigar City’s Gentlemen’s Club (New Oak Spirals) (#3)

22oz bottle decanted into a snifter.  9.5% ABV.  Served at 55F and allowed to elevate to room temperature.

Appearance:  Dark mahogany, no head, relatively clear, and a body full of floating chunks (2.25/5).

Aroma:  Wood, wood, with a hint of wood.  Maybe a little too much wood.  There are some raisins and molasses in there as well.  I also get a bit of oxidation or staling.  That’s odd for a new beer (2.75/5).

Taste:  WOOD!  Holy shit.  It’s like licking a Home Depot.  It’s hard to identify any other flavor the wood is so dominant.  I’m honestly trying to provide a balanced review here, but all I get it wood (2.25/5).

Mouthfeel:  Full body with low carbonation.  Definite warmth from the alcohol, and an harsh puckering from the wood (2.5/5)

Overall:  So… anyway.  There’s a lot of wood in here.  I would suggest that it is a bit over-the-top.  There also appears to be a touch of staling or oxidation, which I assume is intentional, since this beer just came out not too long ago and I bought it cold.  Maybe there’s a good beer in there, but behind the light staling and the heavy-handed oak, it’s tough to tell.  Overall a disappointment (2.5/5).

-Matt

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Old Ale Project – Alaskan Brewing’s Winter Ale (#2)

12oz bottle decanted into a tulip.  6.4% ABV.

Appearance:  Brilliant bronze, no head whatsoever (4/5).

Aroma:  That spruce comes out quick.  Smells like a hike in the forest.  I also get a touch of honey and maple syrup (3.5/5).

Taste:  Cherry Kool-Aid?  Wow… that’s an unexpected flavor.  As my palette acclimates to the sweetness, I start picking up a little vanilla and honey.  All of that is followed by a whisper of floral hops.  Everything is very quiet behind that healthy sweetness (3/5).

Mouthfeel:  Medium body, low carbonation.  I get a touch of alcohol heat on my exhale.  It might benefit from a little more body, but it’s not bad (3.75/5).

Overall:  This is a fairly nice beer.  The local spruce is a nice twist, but it may be a little sweet for my taste.  That artificial cherry flavor is kind of unexpected and bizarre.  Thankfully the sweetness doesn’t hang heavy on my tongue, but I definitely would not order a second round.  If repeat orders are the measure of a successful pint, I guess this one has failed.  But I certainly don’t regret purchasing this single bottle, and may consider another one next year (3.25/5).

-Matt

Sunday, December 8, 2013

Old Ale Project – North Coast Brewing’s Old Stock Ale Otsuchi 2012 (#1)

750ml bottle decanted into a snifter.  11.7% ABV.  Served at 55F and allowed to elevate to room temperature.

Appearance:  Deep chestnut, slight haze, swiftly fading beige head (3/5).

Aroma:  Smells like freshly chipped wood, or yard work on an autumn day.  Very earthy, wet, and musty.  The smell of fresh mud keeps coming to mind.  As it neared room temperature, I got cherries, prunes, and alcohol heat (3.75/5).

Taste:  Prunes, raisins, port, vanilla, and dried cigar tobacco.  Tannic wood (3.25/5).

Mouthfeel:  Medium-to-full body with medium carbonation.  Definite warmth from the alcohol (3.25/5)

Overall:  I wonder if this earthiness that I am taste is an intentional, or unintentional, spike of Brettanomyces.  There is definitely a wild yeast chewing through some of this, but I honestly can’t tell if it’s there on purpose or not.  Overall it is pretty nice, but lacks the smoothness and roundness of what I generally expect of Old Stock Ale.  My internet research has not proven to me that there is a difference between the everyday Old Stock and the one in this bottle, but I’m not in love with this “variant”.  I picked this bottle up off a shelf a month or so ago, so perhaps it has not been cellared properly (3.25/5).
-Matt

Update:  I have contacted the brewery and they confirmed that the beer in this bottle was the same as Old Ale 2012.  Nothing added or subtracted.  So the irregularity I perceived was apparently not intentional.

Saturday, December 7, 2013

Old Ale Project – Opening Thoughts

“It should be a warming beer of the type that is best drunk in half pints by a warm fire on a cold winter’s night” – Michael Jackson

This comment by Michael Jackson was the inspiration behind this quarter’s project.  There is nothing I like better than exactly what is described above.  My favorite beer of the day is the one I have right before I go to bed, and if I can enjoy that pint (or half pint, according to Jackson) in front of my fireplace… I’ll be a content man.

Like my previous project, I’ve picked this style because I know very little about it.  I’ve had the top four most frequently rated examples on Beer Advocate (Founders’s Old Curmudgeon, North Coast’s Old Stock Ale, Great Divide’s Hibernation Ale, and Hair of the Dog’s Adam), but not very many more on their list of Old Ales.  The small amount of research I’ve done thus far suggests that I should be expecting moderate-to-high strength beers, with a dominant malty flavor, significant sweetness, almost no hops, and some complexity from aging.  I love the idea that these were often made to be “stock ales” that were intentionally staled and blended back into fresher batches, and would like to do something similar with my homebrew attempt.

The parameters for the style seem fairly forgiving…

Original Gravity: 1.060 to 1.090
Final Gravity: 1.015 to 1.022
SRM: 10 to 22
IBU: 30 to 60
ABV: 6% to 9%

I don’t expect that I’ll have many problems finding beers in these guidelines.  One thing that I will try to avoid, however, is beer labeled “Winter Warmer”.  The BJCP style guidelines suggest that Winter Warmers could indeed be considered an Old Ale, but this style is a more modern concept and are often released as a brewery’s Christmas offering (and sometime include spicing).  I hope to focus my efforts on beers that are either called “Old Ale” by the brewery, or are considered well known examples of the style.

Finally, for this initiative I will be looking to sample twenty commercial examples.  This is fewer than I’ve targeted before, but a combination of the average price-per-bottle and alcohol-by-volume should slow me down a little bit.  The reality is that I didn’t really learn anything new between beers #21 and #25 during the Belgian Pale Ale project, so I’m confident twenty will be enough here.

So here we go…

-Matt

Friday, December 6, 2013

Belgian Pale Ale Project – A Comprehensive Analysis

Belgian Pale Ales defy many common expectations of Belgian beers; they’re not sour, not funky, and not high in alcohol.  They are an “everyday” beer that is both refreshing and easy to drink.  The bitterness should be low, the color should be a nice copper or amber, and balance is critical.  There is generally a restrained, malty sweetness on the finish that can become cloying, but shouldn’t.  This residual sugar, along with unique contributions from the yeast, can often be interpreted as fresh cut apples or newly pressed cider.  There will likely be a breath of pilsner malt flavor behind this.  Orange or other citrus flavors may also be present, but should be situated in the background.  Phenols can come through in the nose, but should be mild.  Saaz hops are used traditionally, and are often aged to suppress bitterness, but other varieties can be successfully substituted.

Historical notes on this particular style are not easy to come by.  The BJCP (2008) style guidelines suggest that Belgian Pale Ales were “produced by breweries with roots as far back as the mid-1700s” and that “the most well-known examples were perfected after the Second World War with some influence from Britain, including hops and yeast strains.”  The document goes on to note that this type of beer is “most commonly found in the Flemish provinces of Antwerp and Brabant.”

It has been my experience that the absolute best Belgian Pale Ales have an interesting malt bill, a carefully calculated load of Eurpoean hops, moderate-to-low alcohol, and a wonderful cider character that is second only to freshly pressed apples.  The most traditional examples of the style from Belgium are De Koninck, Speciale Palm, Special De Ryck Ale, and Brouwerij de Musketiers’s Antigoon.  Wonderful American options include White Birch Brewing’s Belgian Style Pale Ale, Ommegang’s Rare Vos, Li’l Devil from AleSmith, and Avery's Karma. 

Because of the delicate balance of this style, and the low alcohol that comes with it, Belgian Pale Ales are exceptionally delicate creatures.  Draft options are preferable, but sadly difficult to come by.  Bottles don’t tend to age well on their trip overseas (or across the continent), so the conscious connoisseur may want to either consider a trip to the brewery or hunting down some draft handles.  Try to date your bottles, or at least find your selection in season.  And if it’s been sitting on an unrefriderated shelf at a “big box” relailer… beware.

Another shortcoming of this style is its approachability.  This may not sound like a problem on the surface, but it definitely becomes one when a brewery assembles an offering strictly to appeal to the masses.  This abuse of the style is most flagrant Eagle Rock’s Unionist, Hangar 24's Belgian Summer Ale, Smuttynose's Star Island Single, and, as one would expect, Blue Moon’s Rounder.  I guess this is an arguable point, but I just don’t like seeing good breweries intentionally make beer below their potential just for the sake of attracting more drinkers.  I guess these dumbed-down versions may make decent “gateway” beers for your Budweiser drinking friends, but they do not hold a candle to their well-crafted peers.  Ultimately it’s not that aggressive of a style to begin with, so I just don’t understand neautering its already subtle characteristics.

While traditional Belgian Pale Ales are not born to be funky, Brettanomyces can be used to spice things up a bit.  This clearly takes the beer out of the conventional style guidelines, but the result is generally worth the deviation.  Orval is certainly the most popular example of this, and Green Flash's Rayon Vert is probably the most common American offering, but The Commons Brewery’s Flemish Kiss is, in this humble reviewer’s opinion, unquestionably the best.  Mikkeller also does a good job here with his Ã…rh Hvad?!, but it is not very easy to find.

Speaking of guidelines, the parameters for this style are fairly tight.  According to the BJCP they are…

Original Gravity:  1.048 to 1.054
Final Gravity:  1.010 to 1.014
SRM:  8 to 14
IBU:  20 to 30
ABV:  4.8% to 5.5%

I wanted to try as many beers in this style that I could, but the restrictions listed above left a pretty small window open for commercial examples to sneak through, so I had to broaden my scope a little bit and allow some of the fringe entries to participate as well.  For this analysis I used the following specifications…

  • The beer must be less than or equal to 7.0% ABV
  • The beer must be fermented with a Belgian yeast strain
  • There must be some malt in addition to pilsner (Crystal, Munich, etc.)
  • The SRM must be around 10, give or take five
I felt like these slightly expanded guidelines kept me true to the spirit of the style, without opening the project up for everything that had “Belgian” on the label. 

The twenty five beers in this analysis included…

·         Brewery Ommegang - BPA (#12)
·         Omnipollo - Leon (#22)

The ideal serving temperature for a Belgian Pale ale is probably around 40-45°F, but the malt base really opens up on the later end of that, so don’t be afraid to enjoy it slowly.  The traditional glassware for this style is a snifter, tulip, or bolleke (a bowl-shaped vessel).  I personally don’t own a bolleke, but I found the former two options great for harnessing the beer’s delicate aromas.

Belgian Pale Ales are very easy to pair with food.  Suggestions can be found here…


This beer is also a very fun style to homebrew…

·         Belgian Pale Ale Recipe

And for additional reference, the following were my opening comments and concurrent analysis on the project…

·         Opening Comments
·         Concurrent Analysis

In the end, I would recommend the following five Belgian Pale Ales to someone who is trying to better understand the style…

·         Brouwerij De Koninck - De Koninck (traditional Belgian example)
·         Brouwerij de Musketiers’s - Antigoon by Robert Wiedmaier  (traditional Belgian example)
·         Brewery Ommegang - BPA (American made example)
·         White Birch Brewing - Belgian Style Pale Ale (American made example)
·         The Commons Brewery - Flemish Kiss (with Brettanomyces)

-Matt

Thursday, December 5, 2013

Belgian Pale Ale Project – AleSmith Brewing’s Li'l Devil (BONUS)

12 ounce draft pour into a tulip.  5.5% ABV. 

Appearance:  Shiny, golden amber.  Brilliant, with a thin cap of foam (4.5/5).
 
Aroma:  Clean, fresh, noble hop aroma, along with sweet apples (4/5).

Taste:  This is a beautiful, delicate, beer.  The hops are the predominate flavor, but it’s certainly not bitter.  I also get a bit of pilsner malt and spiced cider (4.25/5).

Mouthfeel:  Medium body, medium carbonation (4.25/5).

Overall:  I’ve been looking for this beer since I started my Belgian Pale Ale project, but being draft-only, and the fact that it only seems to be served in a handful of rotating locations, makes it a tough find.  Anyway I stumbled upon it last night at my local gastropub and thought I should add it to my list of reviews as a “BONUS” beer.  It is a wonderful example of the style; fresh, bright, clean, and alive.  I respect AleSmith for leaving this draft-only, because it would quickly die in a bottle (4.25/5).

-Matt

Wednesday, December 4, 2013

Belgian Pale Ale Project – DC Brau Brewing Co.’s The Citizen (#25)

12 ounce can decanted into a snifter.  7.0% ABV. 

Appearance:  Bright as a new penny, with a very faint haze.  There was a foamy, white head immediately following the pour, but it capsized quickly (3.75/5).

Aroma:  Sharp, floral aroma (smells like Saaz).  Dark, toasted bread and a touch of apple follow-up (4.25/5).

Taste:  Nice restrained, but fresh, hop flavor.  Not overpowering, but definitely the predominate taste.  I also get some apples and just a hint of oranges.  This is followed by a little Grains of Paradise, but this is very much in the background (4/5).

Mouthfeel:  Medium body, light carbonation (3.5/5).

Overall:  I like how DC Brau has made hops the highlight of this beer, without turning it into a hop-forward beer.  There was obviously a very careful and calculated decision on exactly how much bitterness to add.  It’s also interesting to note that this was the only beer in this project that came from a can (well… maybe it’s not that interesting).  Anyway, it’s not the best Belgian Pale Ale I’ve had, but it’s certianly a nice way to finish the project (4/5).

-Matt

Tuesday, December 3, 2013

Belgian Pale Ale Project – Smuttynose Brewing Company’s Star Island Single (#24)

12 ounce bottle decanted into a tulip.  4.7% ABV.  There is a “best before” date inked on the glass, but it has been nearly worn off.  The only number I can see is the year, which is “13”.  I sure hope the rest of them call for out something in December.

Appearance:  Brilliant, light amber.  Only a thin ring of foam around the edges (3/5).

Aroma:  Apples, cinnamon, and floral hops.  Very simple bouquet (3/5).

Taste:  This beer definitely features the characteristic cider quality of a Belgian Pale Ale in its base, but it’s very dialed back.  I also pick up a bit of papaya and a whisper of hop flavor on the back-end (3.5/5).

Mouthfeel:  Medium/light body, light carbonation (3.25/5).

Overall:  Smuttynose claims that this beer is made as a “gateway beer” for people who are not into craft beer.  Of all the Belgian Pales Ales that I’ve had that were dumbed down to cater to the lowest common denominator, this is probably the best.  I’m not crazy about the practice of neutering a style just to make it more approachable, but I’m also not in the business of selling beer.  Ultimately it’s a nice, easy-drinking beer that I am absolutely passionless about (3.25/5).

-Matt

Monday, December 2, 2013

Belgian Pale Ale Project – Blue Mountain Barrel House’s Local Species (#23)

12.7 ounce bottle decanted into a tulip.  6.6% ABV.

Appearance:  Mahogany brown with ruby highlights.  Almost no head to speak of and a slight haze (3.5/5).

Aroma:  Wood and booze.  The beer was aged in charred American White Oak bourbon barrels, so that makes sense.  These two smells are so dominate that little else is allowed to come through.  Maybe a touch of piney hops, and a little bit of maple syrup, but I’m really hunting for them (3.75/5).

Taste:  The oak comes through before anything else.  This is followed up by a hint of Belgian yeast esters and a floral hop bitterness.  As it warms the bourbon comes forward, and eventually overpowers everything else (3.75/5).

Mouthfeel:  Medium body, light carbonation.  Also a touch of astringency from the oak, a bit of warmth from the bourbon (4/5).

Overall:  It’s nice to have at least one barrel aged example in this project.  It’s not the purest example of the style, but it is close enough that I’m willing to include it.  Overall I’m happy with the beer, but I would have liked to have seen just a little more beer and a little less bourbon.  This same beer, with the booze dialed back about 25%, would be absolutely amazing.  As it stands, the branches can’t support all the decorations (3.75/5).

-Matt